BREAKING: Zenith's Defy Lab opens a new watchmaking era, with world-first novel monoblock regulating system, 108,000 VpH (15 Hz), new light Aeronith material - intro & video!

Sep 14, 2017,03:00 AM
 

I am currently at the Zenith Manufacture in Le Locle to witness the historical moment of the world's first presentation of Zenith's new Defy Lab watch, featuring a revolutionary, groundbreakingly new watch regulating system, which abandons the multipart balance cum hairspring principle for watch regulation originally developed by Dutch astronomer, mathematician and physicist Christiaan Huygens in January 1675:



Zenith's new oscillating system, developed by LVMH Watch Division R&D Institute under the auspices of a team lead by Guy Semon, for the first time in 342 years, does away with the regulating principle af a coupled balance and spring assembly universally used in mechanical clocks and watches (with the balance being a balance wheel, a pendulum or else).



Instead, and to my knowledge for the first time in history, a monolithic oscillator made of monocrystalline silicon coated with a layer of silicon oxide (at certain parts finer than a human hair), replacing the entire balance, balance spring and escapement wheel assembly usually comprising of about 30 single parts.



One can clearly spot that this device unites both tension (spring) as well as weight (pendulum) function:









Instead of the friction-controlled stop-release-stop interactions of the conventional regulation system, Zenith's new regulator makes use of topological changes of the silicon monolith. The absence of conventional mechanical couplings eliminates contact, friction, wear, slack, lubrication, assemblies and dispersions.

The following video illustrates the system:



Zenith's new ZO 342 calibre (sic, that name!) measures 32.8 mm in diameter and 8.13 mm in thickness, with the barely 0.5 mm thick Zenith Oscillator appears beneath the dial. It beats at the high frequency of 15 Hz (or 108,000 VpH), but with an amplitude of only +/- 6° (compared to the 300° of a conventional escapement). The entire movement provide 60h of power reserve and achieves a mean daily rate deviation within just 0.3 seconds, which is maintained for 95% of its power reserve, i.e. for 57h.





The small turbine-shaped wheel is the equivalent to the escapement wheel on the Zenith Oscillator:



Furthermore, the regulating system does not need to be lubricated, and is inert to influences of temperature gradients, gravity and magnetic fields.





Its chronometric quality is attested by a triple certification:

  1. a chronometer certification awarded by Besançon Observatory, on behalf of the International Bureau of Weights and Measures
  2. the ISO-3159 standard has been broadened: variations of around 0.3 seconds per day and per degree Celsius of deviation are certified, and measured on the thermal spectrum -7°C to +53°C, whereas the standard is limited to +8°C to +38°C
  3. the ISO-764 magnetic criteria, exceeding them by 18 times (for the completed watch), meaning it can withstand 88,000 Amperes per meter or 1,100 Gauss

The production requires cutting edge laboratory facilities with clean-room conditions:













The new watch which will first house the new movement, the Zenith Defy X Time 10 Laboratory, comes with a new case alloy called Aeronith (developed by Hublot’s R&D department under the supervision of its director Mathias Buttet), according to Zenith a new material resembling an extremely solid metal foam which features superb technical advantages such as a low density of just 1.6 kg/dm3, which is 2.7 times lighter than titanium, 1.7 times lighter than aluminium and 10% lighter than carbon fibre.

The material is unsual, but this is something that I think befits Zenith's tradition, as long as one keeps in mind that innovation does not equal 'classical design'. Zenith supplied us with a few life shots:









The first 10 watches of the new Zenith Defy Lab series are released as a special edition, each single watch in a one-off design: 5 different colours, with either rhodium or gold plated hands an indices. They are already sold to distinguished collectors.



I shall write up a more an in-depth report on this outstanding technical achievement by Zenith in a few days - stay tuned!

But right now let me close with Jean-Claude Biver's words: “Without tradition, there is no future”, but also “Without innovation, there is no future”.

There is nothing to add!
Magnus

Note: Special thanks to Purist Sascha Glistau for sharing the images as well as the videos with me, and to Zenith, particilarly the Austria team, for arranging my trip - and allowing me to get my hands at the information early...
________________

Technical details:
Reference: 27.9000.342/78.R582 10 unique pieces (each is different)

ZENITH OSCILLATOR (CALIBRE ZO 342)
Monolithic regulating organ (Zenith Oscillator) made out of Silicon Calibre 141⁄4```
Diameter: 32.80 mm
Movement thickness: 8.13 mm
Components: 148
Jewels: 18
Frequency: 108,000 VpH (15 Hz)
Power-reserve: approx. 60 hours
Finishing: Oscillating weight adorned with “Côtes de Genève” motif

FUNCTIONS

Hours, minutes and central seconds

CASE, DIAL & HANDS
Diameter: 44 mm
Opening diameter: 35.5 mm
Thickness: 14.5 mm
Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: Transparent sapphire crystal Material: Aeronith
Water-resistance: 5 ATM
Dial: Openworked
Hour-markers: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with black varnish
Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with black varnish

STRAP & BUCKLE

Black rubber with alligator leather coating Titanium double folding clasp


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Comments: view entire thread 

Thank you for a fantastic report, Magnus!

 
By: blomman Mr Blue : September 14th, 2017-03:10
Very interesting and innovative solution. Looking forward to see how these will preform in everyday life. Best Blomman

Very fascinating!

 
By: KMII : September 14th, 2017-03:17
Any idea on when these will be available in their portfolio? Apart from the first, piece unique ones?

Wow incredible innovation

 
By: ed : September 14th, 2017-03:24
Looking forward to hearing more about the watch. Truly remarkable breakthru...

Many thanks Magnus for this discovery. Your video is particularly eloquent. I would be curious to "hear" this new mouvement (if we can hear something). Is it "noisy"? (There's no sound in your video)

 
By: Alkiro1 : September 14th, 2017-03:27
Can you feel something on your arm independently of the lightness of the watch? The new material used for the case is really impressive too. I want to see more now 😁 Thanks again Best wishes Alkiro

JCB continues to deliver

 
By: gcTIME : September 14th, 2017-03:39
Value and innovations to manufactures he leads and to the industry. Not only has he introduced innovations, he has applied them to products that are affordable and this can be enjoyed by many end consumers. I find such to be his most remarkable and admira... 

Had to read it more than once lol

 
By: Bruno.M1 : September 14th, 2017-03:44
but this is a game changer, although I have a weak spot for more traditional watches. That aside I feel confident that there is room for both being old fashioned and hyper modern Very well done!

Long term this technology is not in the competition for high end watches...

 
By: DonCorson : September 14th, 2017-04:09
but it will be a game changer for mid and low end. The potential cost savings are tremendious and that on the most labor intensive and thus expensive portion of the movement, the oscillator. Once these prove themselves on the wrist the quantities will be ... 

Mind-boggling isn't quite vivid enough a term . . .

 
By: Dr No : September 14th, 2017-03:51
. . . to describe this development, Magnus. Mind-blowing is more like it. I'm trying to come up with an apt analogy, and the only one I can come up with at the moment is the comparison of solid state devices with vacuum tubes. Totally different, yet essen... 

They have nailed it here.

 
By: ifraher : September 14th, 2017-04:02
I didn't find the El Primero 21 that attractive on release but here they have managed to blend technology with a sleak case, time only, interesting materials, breakthrough movement, it has a lot going for it. Very positive. Is this another 'El Primero' as... 

Great detailled and thorough report Magnus.

 
By: georgeszaslavsky : September 14th, 2017-04:26
As much as innovative is this movement from Zenith , it makes the range of Zenith watches too Hublotish, however perhaps with a classical dial with luminous hands and indexes , it will be more classical and easier to buy for a Zenith classic watch fact t... 

I said much the same on another forum – my concern is the Defy range will be Hublot Jr by a different name.

 
By: anonymous09 : September 14th, 2017-04:56
I hope not, but this double announcement seems to be paving the way for such an outcome – an edgier Zenith, trying to be somewhat akin to what the LABs are for JLC. Nonetheless, kudos on the 60h PR, which is a refreshing change from ~40 hours many movemen... 

To me it is not so much

 
By: gcTIME : September 14th, 2017-05:06
How the technology is applied to making watches that are similar or not similar to Hublot or whoever, it is the fact that JCB has continued to innovate and not be necessarily confined to real world application constraints. This is what has been lacking in... 

Well some movements had already 100 hours power reserve or 72 hours of power reserve way before this one

 
By: georgeszaslavsky : September 14th, 2017-06:01
Look at the Piguet 1150 which powers the Blancpain range, back in 1989 it offered already 100 hours power reserve. Also several other inhouse movements like the ones from Panerai or IWC offer 8 days of power reserve and still use traditional technology. E... 

Again

 
By: gcTIME : September 14th, 2017-06:15
watchmaking is honestly not so much about reliability or accuracy or long power reserve but rather about art and increasingly in recent years, innovations. It is about the spirit of being willing to evolve and to do things differently, even if what is cre... 

Fact that three of the best worldwide best selling brands which are Rolex, Omega and Breitling don't use this technology and still sell more watches than Zenith

 
By: georgeszaslavsky : September 14th, 2017-08:24
Rolex introduced its new chronergy escapement in 2016, Omega introduced the coaxial escapement in 1999 and Breitling introduced the B01 with self centering hammers back in 2009. The question is how very profitable is the supposed innovation and what are r... 

And Casio just sold its 100M'th G Shock

 
By: gcTIME : September 14th, 2017-08:39
I don't think sales and popularity necessarily equate to the level of technological competence. As you said, some buy for status, others for practicality, yet still some for the artistic value and uniqueness and personal identity. What I admire is not nec... 

finally something we can agree on :)

 
By: georgeszaslavsky : September 14th, 2017-09:29
Even Patek's complained that the Carrera Tourbillon based on the 02 movement shouldn't be priced that cheaply and yes the v4 and Mikrograph are unique and breath of fresh air for Tag which was and is mainly an assembleur not a true manufacture. Sure it is... 

A real watch with a real innovation

 
By: piccolochimico (aka dsgalaxy1) : September 14th, 2017-05:01
I was waiting for such a discovery since many years, when i realized that nobody wanted to invest in R&D to manufacture a new innovative geometry, with an excellent precision and reliability. To me, the most important aspect is that this caliber is availa... 

To break the rules,

 
By: gcTIME : September 14th, 2017-05:09
First you have to master them ;-) Some keeps breaking the rules while others continue mastering them it seems.

Indeed

 
By: piccolochimico (aka dsgalaxy1) : September 14th, 2017-05:25
Much easier and cheaper write a sentence than draw a new caliber; this rule apply to the whole sector. I guess that soon this technology will be shared with Tag and Hublot; likely the best is yet to come, in terms of innovative escapements/ oscillators.

Not only for the LVMH group

 
By: Bruno.M1 : September 14th, 2017-05:33
Other brands will be able to buy it too. A bit like ETA used to be Or like the el primero. So many brands used this legendary movement, zenith might have created another legendary movement that will have impact on the entire watch business

Before getting carried away, bear in mind that the movement is 8.13 mm thick – and that’s just for a basic 3-hander!

 
By: anonymous09 : September 14th, 2017-05:42
We’re not going to see this in any Bvlgari Octo (and certainly not the Finissimos) any time soon. It will be restricted to thick/chunky style watches, which explains the reasoning behind the dual announcement of the Aeronith material.

It will have to demonstrate an over the long term robustness, reliability and ruggedness before being valued a great calibre but there is a long way before this

 
By: georgeszaslavsky : September 14th, 2017-06:08
The finish on this movement, it is pretty pedestrian and nothing high end of what Zenith proposes, so the so called legendary movement that will have to be seen in two or even three is the low end and middle of the range of stuff so no possible compariso... 

That's true for any novelties, and great brands have struggled simple to reshape bridges...

 
By: Ornatus-Mundi : September 14th, 2017-13:50
Zenith is mid-range in my book, and I feel a real disconnect between their high end stuff and the remainder of the offerings. The former look like an afterthought to me. Magnus

zenith still has some very high end timepieces like the Academy Christophe Colomb and el primero minute repeater both each worthy of more than 240k$

 
By: georgeszaslavsky : September 14th, 2017-14:04
And still much more beautifully crafted than this movement. I still consider Zenith as a luxury brand whereas Tag is indeed mid range. Not every brand has won many chronometric prizes like Zenith and not many brands have such a rich history of making grea... 

What a revolution!

 
By: heartbreaker : September 14th, 2017-06:06
Huge congratulations to the women and the men from the Manufacture. I wish this revolutionary innovation could bring a lot of lucky to Zenith. And I find these "Lab" series to be quite appealing too. I hope we will soon have a "Standard", reasonably price... 

Finally! It's out in the open

 
By: MTF : September 14th, 2017-07:38
Magnus, Thanks for the "LIVE" report. It's has been unbearable not to say anything all this time. I asked the current Mrs MTF if money could be spared for such an innovation that comes round only every 340 years but she refused on the grounds that we were... 

As a (legal) historian, I misread your simple formula ...

 
By: Marcus Hanke : September 17th, 2017-11:22
... and it still was correct. Tradition + Innovation=WWI Also World War I was the result of these two ingredients ....... Marcus

Is the case material as open-celled as it appears?

 
By: cazalea : September 14th, 2017-09:46
It seems one could file one's nails on it while watching the (not) escapement. A wonderful development; a new class of movement where we now have mechanical, Quartz, Spring Drive and Zenith Oscillator. Cazalea

Sure you can watch the escapement while filing your nails.

 
By: DonCorson : September 14th, 2017-10:07
The small "finned" wheel seen on the dial is the escape wheel with the anchor being a part of the silicon structure right next to it. The underlying patent explains alot EP3032350A1.

Wonderful Report Magnus, thank you and Congrats to Zenith....

 
By: SALMANPK : September 14th, 2017-08:22
I love the brand and am so happy they are bringing such cutting edge innovation to the forefront. Love the new Aeronith material. I hope they also revive their diving watch line, they have such a deep history in that area. S

Anothers superb scoop my friend!

 
By: Ares501 - Mr Green : September 14th, 2017-11:21
Marvelous post above all and I'm very happy that one of my favorite brands made such breakthrough! Enjoy Cheers D

Quite an achievement!

 
By: Brandon Skinner : September 14th, 2017-11:32
Any word how they create the "metal foam" and also, any live photos of A3? That particular combo looks quite appealing. Congrats to the entire Zenith team!

Maggie, much thanks for this report. I am looking forward to a technical follow on report..

 
By: Ronald Held : September 14th, 2017-13:43
I have concerns about the long term robustness of such a high frequency movement. Is this to be a serially produced watch? I am many sigma out of watch collectors, bit short of kinetic watch sculptures, accuracy is an important part of any timepiece.

Thank you for the report!! This is amazing to see!

 
By: watchestolove : September 14th, 2017-13:46
However I wonder if that high rate of vibration one can feel like on the wrist? Would be uncomfortable, no?

This is very interesting

 
By: Mark in Paris : September 14th, 2017-14:59
Your report is great as always Magnus, thanks for bringing this in here. I remember when I started to get really interested by watches that I was wondering why we didn't have more innovations. Of course I understood quickly (because I'm smart of course) t... 

Thank you, Magnus and Sascha, for this excellent report!

 
By: shortys home : September 14th, 2017-22:50
This innovation clearly derserves a lot of respect, well done Zenith! Now, I am curious to see it in the metal and feel it on the wrist at some point in the future. For now my initial thoights are mixed: It seems to offer plenty of significant improvement... 

Thrilling!

 
By: Marcus Hanke : September 15th, 2017-05:16
I assume this has not been developed by Zenith, but within a hitech think-tank? Where will the series production be located? Marcus

Thank you Magnus for a wonderful piece of information.

 
By: Alex25 : September 15th, 2017-14:57
In my opinion Zenith is on the right track. However the question of innovations is quite controversial. 1) Purists may claim that the usage of silicon undermines core horological principles. The parts being made by machine present no "warmth" in compariso... 

Defy Lab Prototype

 
By: Sascha : September 16th, 2017-01:04
Dear all, in early 2017 i ´ ve got the chance to take a video shot of an early prototype of the Defy Lab (project name: "X-Time" at this time). It´s a slow motion video and the prototype is in a TAG Heuer case because Guy Sémons Lab is at TAG Heuer so he ... 

best part has yet to come ......

 
By: Bruno.M1 : September 16th, 2017-01:39
a very reliable source said Zenith will offer a watch with this revolutionary movement pretty soon to the public .... for a price ... UNDER 6000 euro ...  

Finally something that we can consider as a "novelty"

 
By: Freccero : September 19th, 2017-10:23
Nowadays many brands come up with revolutionary systems, materials and methods but the true novelties that makes watchmaking evolving are very few and as far as I know I think that the Defy Lab is one of those. I have criticised Biver many times for its m... 

Epic Report. Opus of technology...

 
By: patrick_y : September 19th, 2017-22:35
Wow. That's an amazing piece of technology. Looking forward to seeing this cutting edge Zenith (no pun intended) in the flesh. Great report!